Monday, December 22, 2014

Studer line amp boards from the A 80 tape machine from Club Front, the Grateful Dead studio

Leslie 22h into a 122, 2 speed cab

In this video we show peter cleaning out the cab and degreasing the components and soldering new leads onto the horn driver. 

22h to 122 conversion


The supply of Two Speed motors from the original vendor has been exhausted.
We have tooled up to convert single speed type motors into the two speed version.
This gives us the ability to repair any failure of one or two speed motors.

Q:  What is the difference ?   
A:  Single speed motors have the shaft protruding from only one end.  Two speed motors have the shaft coming out of both ends, and mounting holes for all of the required bracketing to mount the slow motor.

Convert your single speed Leslie motor into a two speed type.

What you do: 

Send us your motor assembly complete with all of its mounting brackets pulleys and wiring.

What we do:

We will send you a complete two speed motor assembly. 

Wednesday, June 25, 2014

warranty info

Q. My job is under warranty, what do I need to do?

First check your warranty and see what they will and will not cover!

 Once you have determined that your job will be covered; bring it in to us WITH your original sales receipt or a duplicate copy issued by the seller! You are responsible to provide us this document.

   Once you get here you will be asked to fill out our Warranty SRQ and Repair Contract, or you can find
them on our web site and fill them out in advance. We will assign you a Work Order # once you bring
your unit into our Shop.

   Most Warranties cover to Repair or Replacement Service Labor and parts. However there are some
Services that are Not-Covered. Extras like "RUSH Service", special or Rush Freight, In Home Service,

   Special Follow up, are some of the things that are Not-Covered under the Normal Warranty!

Our Special Services Fee on SRQ is for customers who want special treatment such as calling them to
explain every step of the repair process, or customers that call us many times to check on job progress
and want to speak to the technician or packing their unit for the trip home, or request us to check out
something not covered under warranty, or to research their warranty for them, ETC!

  To provide excellent communication with the least amount of time we have developed our web site
so you can then check on your job online by going to our web site, and clicking
on "Repair status" button, then you click on your work order #. You will see one of the following;
Pending, Progress, Parts or Complete. Complete means that it is ready to pick up. If it says Pending or
Progress please read the notes carefully as there is information regarding the job and you may need to

contact us. We prefer eamil to for questions regarding the Status of your job.

Friday, June 13, 2014

Big Muff "Rams Head" Fuzz Pedal 

June 12, 2014

Modification to add a DC Power Input Jack 

In this installment, we were asked to put a DC Power Jack on the pedal for use with external power supplies. We are going to wire it to the Roland Tip Negative standard Polarity. 

  While we are in surgery, we will also install a new Battery Clip, and replace the Guitar Input Jack with a new jack with a switch for turning the Pedal on and off. 

Items Needed
DC Jack
Battery Clip
Input jack – Switching type

First we remove the stock On/Off slide switch. This hole will be filed out to accommodate the new DC Input jack. We used a Metal jack that takes a plug size 2.1 X 5.5 mm, and there is as witch to the sleeve. This switch contact is used to connect to the battery when there is no power supply used. 

If the external power source is not plugged in, the battery is connected. We mount the jack in the chassis and wire it as shown in the photo.Next we wire the new Battery Clip into the pedal so that we can still use battery power if we want. One lead is connected to the switch terminal on the DC input jack and the other connects to the PC Board. 
We will replace the Guitar Input jack to substitute for the On/Off Switch we removed. 

Mount the Jack and wire it as seen in the photos. 

There are two more mods that I would recommend. This pedal was not made with a True Bypass Switch, and it would not be difficult to change it. This Pedal has a boat load of Gain to get the Fuzz Tone. Therefore when it is powered by an external power supply, that power supply must be well regulated, that is a Noise Free Power Source. I tried three or four common Wall Wart Power Supplies, and they all had some noise getting to the output. So, we can add some regulation and some extra filtering to get back our Battery like power source.

That’s it! Happy Fuzzing!
Battery clip and DC input Jack

Battery, the arrows drawn on the board point to the positive battery leads footswitch 

the switching jack installed

close up of the switching jack

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

One of our reconditioned synths, a Juno 106, just opened for the Rolling Stones playing with Rami Fortis. Check the link below the photo.

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

The Univox EC 80, 

Just a little tape head cleaning and bias adjusted to bring back this killer delay unit.

Thursday, May 1, 2014

Hammond vibrato and oilers

In this video peter discuses rebuilding the vibrato / chorus  function of Hammond. A lot of detailed info on the oil distribution system,and a little on dendrites.

cae sound ham vib from BillyBatesVideo on Vimeo.

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Carlos Reyes and custom violin with
built in boss RV-1 delay
and our own CB-1preamp 

Carlos Reyes custom Electric Violin with CB-1 Pre amp and delay unit.

     Carlos is one of the top Violin around the world and is frequently flying. Tired of bag checks and worried about the safety of his equipment he came up with the idea to put all of his pedals electronics in his violin and contacted us knowing our long history of custom design.  

      We began with the pre-amp our Cb 1, its is designed to sit between the pickups and the output jack and to be “in circuit” at all times. Originally designed by John Cutler for Jerry Garcia, CB1 is a true Hi-Fi wide-band guitar preamp. It buffers the high impedance output of the guitar pickup and provides the low impedance drive necessary to send the signal to the effects pedal with no tone loss. 

the cb1 in action click photo for link to store

   Then the signal goes into the electronics of Boss RV-1.  The electronics are mounted on a removable board cut out of the bottom of the violin. We mounted the pots of the pedal on the top of the violin. we kept the four adjustable parameters and disregarded the on/off function using the wet/dry to control the amount of effect.  The foil around the unit is added to remove any hum. 

the guts of the Boss Rv1
the Boss Rv 1


For more info on the CB1 preamp (and two other preamps CB2  and the Jangletone pre amp) you can go to our Web Store at

CB1 Specs
Frequency response 10Hz to 200K Hz
Output Z = 600 Ohms
Input Z = 500K Ohms
Phase = 0’ Non-Inverting
Power Requirement = 9VDC Duracell MN1604
Current Drain = 5mA
Size in inches = 1" X 1" X 5/8" Tall
Weight = 10 grams
Gain = 1X (Unity)

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Fender Rhodes Bass Key replacement

    We had a Rhodes Bass with really bad action.  On most keyboards this is an easy fix for us.  But this one had some missing aluminum parts that we needed to remanufacture.

    I made a mold for forming the blank strips of brass by taking two of the stock parts that had fallen out of the piano action. These parts were then glued to a rod. The rod and old parts were placed on a Tuna Can. The tuna can had little snips cut out of the sides to allow the rod to fall into the snipped groove. I used a filler product called "FixAll" as a mold compound. Filling the Tuna Can just to the top, and then laying the original parts into the mold compound made the shape of the parts I needed to copy.


     I took the original parts out of the piano action. These are glued to the Key pedestal, and makes the hammer speed up when it hits the bump. If some keys have the part, while others are missing the piano action will behave very differently from key to key. In order to copy the missing parts, I needed to make a mold to replicate the missing pieces. I did this by taking two other parts that had fallen out, bet were still inside the piano. These were glued to a rod.



     Once the new parts had been formed from the brass strips cut from a sheet, and pressed into the mold. I glued them back on the keys. This was dome with some clamps and other misc. wood blocks I had laying around. I needed to clamp both ends of the brass strip firmly onto the key, without flattening out the bump we made with the mold.  

 Another cool thing about Rhodes this old is the tines are square as opposed to the flat ones used in later models.